Article of attire



June 27, 1939. H. c. UNDERWOOD ARTICLE OF ATTIRE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed NOV. 2, 1958 *INVENTOR.

J1me27, 1939- H. c. UNDERWOOD ARTICLE OF ATTIRE Filed Nov. 2, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 NW MN w INVENTOR,

ATTORNEY.

Patented June 27, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE' 7 Claims.

Oba'ects Among the principal objects which the invention has in view are: to provide an improved article of the character indicated consisting of a body portion and facing material; to improve upon the uniflcation'of said body portion and facing material; to obtain a direct unification between said body portion and facing material without intervention of any lining material; to support the facing material directly upon the body portion throughout the entire face of the juxtaposed body portion and facing material; to avoid loose areas and bubbles between the body portion and facing material; to provide deep hollows forreception of cementitious material in one web; to provide a plurality of webs of which one web consists of heavier threads than another web; to employ threads of relative heavy, light and medium threads in the fabric; to provide thinned areas by omission of the heavy threads; to provide webs assembled to present deep hollows on one face of the fabric and close woven more even texture on the other surface thereof; to enable an improved collar to be provided having identical external appearance where desired, to the external appearance of a shirt or other garment to which it is attached; to provide an improved method for manufacture of an article of the nature indicated; to provide a construction and method which will avoid the presence of any adherent material or dope on the exposed face of the body portion; to provide for desired weight, thickness, and degree of rigidity together with color, pattern, weight, thickness, rigidity and other characteristics of facing material; to necessitate employment of only one layer of cementitious material or substance; to obtain improved adhesion of the adhesive to the fabric; to reduce operation and material costs; to secure simplicity of construction and of steps of manufacture; and to obtain other advantages and results as may be brought out in the following description.

Drawings Figure 1 is a somewhat diagrammatic view of the method involved in manufacture of the body or backing material with a layer of cementitious material applied on one face thereof;

Figure 2 is a face view of a portion of such material stamped or cut as part of an article of at tire, such as a collar or the like and with facing material adhered thereto;

Figure 3 is a similar view showing the reverse side of the material with a design similar to the facing material woven therein; I

Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary portion of the body. portion to emphasize the weaving thereof substantially as shown in Figure 2, no attempt being made to show other webs through the mesh of the web shown;

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 3 on an enlarged scale to more clearly emphasize the weaving on the reverse side;

Figures 6 and 7 are longitudinal sectional views taken on lines 6 and 1 of Figure 4;

Figure 8 is a further enlarged fragmentary portion similar to Fig. 6 for showing the weave of the thinned area, as upon line 8'--8 of Figure 2;

Figure 9 is a face view showing facing material applied to the article of attire such as a collar, the facing materialbeing broken away for part of the length of the article, showing in part the cementitious material and the coarse surface to which the cementitious material is applied, and showing collar attached to a portion of a shirt;

Figure 10 is a sectional view taken on line Ill-l0 of Figure 9 and showing the facing material fused to the body portion;

Figures 11 and 12 are similar sectional views and showing the facing material before being fused to the body portion;

Figure 13 shows somewhat diagrammatically a step in manufacture by which the facing material is fused upon the body portion under heat and pressure; and

Figure 14 shows the fused construction and an example of application thereof to a garment.

Description In the specific embodiment of the invention illustrated in said drawings, the reference numeral l5 designates in general a body material, a preferred articulation'of which is more fully disclosed in Figures 2 to 8 inclusive, Figure 1 showing the material as having been woven and in a roll it from which it is treated and then wound again into a roll I1. I I

. For purposes of complete disclosure, a description of the body material or fabric I5 is deemed desirable and essential. The said fabric or body I5 is peculiarly constructed to serveas a base or backing for another fabric 26 hereinafter described and which constitutes a facing fabric for the superimposition or juxtaposition of the said facing fabric upon only one side of the body portion by cementitious adhesion of the type generally referred to in the trade as fusing. Said body portion or fabric is essentially a multiply structure, and according to the specific disclosure is a woven three ply construction consisting of three webs integrally united by a simultaneously woven binder thread, although any desired number of webs may be employed in articulation thereof as desired. Therefore, merely by way of description of the specific showing and without limitation to the number of webs let it be said that the body portion, except for a limited area or limited areas as shown and referred to hereinafter as the thinned area, provides an upper and preferably coarse web or layer A, a lower or exterior web or layer B of relatively closely woven texture, and an intermediate or interior web or layer or layers C preferably coarser than either of the webs. The upper and lower webs are secured together, and thereby also retain the intermediate or interior web by means of binder threads It.

The articulation of the several webs and binder threads above described is accomplished by weaving the upper and lower webs each with warp threads l9, I9 respectively and weft threads 20, respectively. The intermediate web may conveniently comprise gut warp threads 2| laid longitudinally of the fabric which positions them.at right angles to the weft threads or picks. The binder warp threads I! may conveniently alternate with and pass between successive warp gut threads and intersect with the weft threads or filling picks by passing first over one pick of the upper web and thenunder one pick of the lower web and so on in repeating sequence, thereby binding all three webs. A, B and G into one integral woven multiply structure. The material is therefore not only integral in itself, but presents capability of being produced in any weight, thickness and degree of rigidity desired.

Among the structural advantageous features of the material embodying the above described construction, is the fact that the undulating flight of the binder threads passing repeatedly through the entire thickness of the fabric throughout its area produces a close-set series of projections and indentations or hollows, both lateral and longitudinal with respect to the surface of the material, which serve as a secure griphold for the cementitious fusing substance hereinafter described by which the body portion and the facing material obtain maximum intermeshing of the adhesive with the fabric. Thus permanence of adhesion of the cementitious substance to the body portion will be practically assured, but in any event is greatly enhanced.

Preferably, and as more especially illustrated in Figures 4 to 8, the several webs are fabricated from threads of different weights or diameters both for purpose of obtaining proper texture at opposite surfaces (with hollows in one surface for receiving the adhesive) and for obtaining desired weight, re-enforcement and total thickness of the multiply material. Accordingly, I have shown, with some exaggeration, the lower or closelywoven texture web B formed with what may be here termed medium weight warp and weft threads I9, 20. The character of these threads may readily be and preferably is the same as employed as facing fabric D and also as employed in manufacture of the shirt or other article of attire with which the collar or the like of the presarcane ent invention is to be used and of which it may well be a fixed part when said article is completed ready for sale and use. Consequently it is convenient to weave into web B the identical design appearing both in the shirt II (Fig. 9) and in the facing fabric 26 and thus, both as to texture and designor pattern, the lower surface of the collar or the like agrees with the applied outer facing and with the shirt itself. Binder threads ll, also necessarily forming\a minor part of the exposed side of the lower web are preferably of lighter weight or diameter than the warp and weft threads of that web so as to meld therewith and give the desired fine texture to the exposed su.r-. face without destroying the design or substantially altering the surface appearance.

The upper web A is made up of warp threads I! and weft threads 20 here shown and preferably of substantially the same weight or diameter as those of lower web B, but not so closely or tightly woven and not necessarily forming the same design of the surface fabric. Between the upper and lower webs I provide an intermediate web which may conveniently comprise warp gut or filler threads 2|. These filler threads are likewise preferably of greater weight or diameter than any of the threads forming the other webs, and likewise are as numerous as warp threads I! of upper web A so that for each warp thread l0 there will be a corresponding warp gut or filler thread 2 I. The severalwebs are secured together by means of a warp binder thread l8. This warp binder thread is preferably of light weight or small in diameter, and is in fact preferably of a less diameter than any of the other threads used in any of the webs. There is a warp binder thread interposed between each of the filler warp threads and consequently the binder thread is likewise positioned between each warp thread l9. These binder threads preferably all pass over the same weft thread of the upper web A and all pass under the same weft thread of the lower web B. The said binder thread preferably does not go over every weft thread of the upper web nor under every weft thread of the lower web, and is here shown as skipping every alternate weft thread of both webs. The upper web being somewhat more loosely woven than the lower web, results in the binder thread pulling the weft thread over which it passes downwardly, and as a result partly from this circumstance, deep pockets are provided between alternate weft threads of the upper web, with the one weft thread secured by the binder thread pulled to the bottom of the pocket and the alternate weft threads remaining at a greater elevation, as clearly shown in Fig. 7. Likewise, since the binder threads pass over the same weft thread as every alternate warp thread of the upper web, that particular warp thread is likewise drawn to the bottom of the pocket whereas the alternate warp thread extends higher up and helps define the edge of the pocket. The material accordingly has a very distinct appearance of providing a series of rows of rectangular depressions or pockets, and these pockets are formed for the primary purpose of receiving an adhesive substance 23 and enabling the adhesive substance to obtain a very secure and permanent griphoid of the projections of the warp and weft threads not pulled down by the binder threads. The structure as described, enables the adhesive substance to get in under the projecting portions of the warp and weft threads and thus not only be retained by surface adhesion as to the threads but'by the encircling grip of the adhesive beneath portions of the threads.

As indicated above, the fabric comprising the body portion may have areaswhich are of a thinned nature, such as indicated at 22 in Fig. 2,

and shown in enlarged detail in,'l"lg. 8. This thinned area, as indicated by the section of Fig.

8. considered also in relation to the showing of Figs. 2 and 3, is obtained by merely having the upper portion A present for such area and omitting lower portion B and intermediate portion or portions 0 and binder threads I. ,at said area.

The construction is obtained by omission of the .warp threads I! of the lower ply as well as the threads. but is comprised of aweaving of the medium threads only. In practice, it is preferably when applying .the adhesive substance, to spreadthe same evenly upon the exposedface of the upper material except on the said thinned area thereof and to entirely omit any adhesive upon thesald thinned area.

Referring now more specifically to Fig. l, the material constructed or woven in accordance with v the preceding description is unwound from roll it and rewoundon roll II in any desired and suitable manners As the material passes from one roll to the other it is treated with said thermoplastic cementitious substance 23 applied to one side thereof which for convenience has been and will continue to be referred to as the upper side. Said cementitious. substance is preferably quite viscous, and is spread and limited in amount remaining upon the material by any suitable means such as a spreader or doctor knife 24. This spreader eliminates excess amounts of the adhesive substance 13, forces it into the hollows of the upper web and leaves a relatively thin layer thereof upon one side only of the body portion fabric exclusive of the thinned area. The material then passes into any suitable oven or other heating means 25 by which the adhesive substance is both enabled to more securely imbed in the hollows and obtain better grip-hold on the threads forming the bottoms of the cavities or hollows and upon and around the threads forming the'projections above described existing in the upper face of the material, the adhesive being dried in place so as to enable the material to be rolled into roll I! without the successive layers of material in the roll adhering to each other.

substances may be employed. and merely by way of indicating one such material, and for purposes of complete disclosure, the following formula is given, namely:

One part cellulose acetate (as a base). One part plasticizer (as a softener).

One part acetone (as a solvent for the above).

One part (if desired) resin (for increased adhesion).

It may here be said that a number of adherent 3 ric or body portion only, the adhesion of the substance to the body portion being increased by virtue of the hollows and projections of the fabric as described above. After the adhesive substance is applied, spread and dried, the coated fabric may then be rolled up as indicated, or used immediately to complete formation of the article of attire, such as collars, cuffs and the like.

The .body portion of the article of attire is stamped or cut out in proper size and shape, and

a similarly cut facing fabric 26-.is then appliedor juxtaposed upon the face of the .body portion which has been out. The facing fabric is larger than the body portion in order that edges of the facing fabric may be bent around the edges of the body portion. In Figs. 10 to 13 the body portion and facing fabric are shown juxtaposed with the adhesive substance indicatedin :the hollows of the body portion by stippling except at the thinned area. In Figs. 10, 12 and 13,

the margin of the facing material which projects beyond the body fabric in Fig. 11 has been bent over and secured as by stitching 21 to the body material. I

The fact that the facing fabric is juxtaposed upon the one surface side of the body portion orfabric having the adhesive substance thereon enables the juxtaposed elements to be passed through a mangle or other device having appro priate pressureand heat, as indicated in Fig. 13.

The'pressure and heat serve to render'the ad- I hesive substance tacky, the substance is imbedded in both the body portion and facing fabric without passing through those fabrics, and 0btains a secure flatwise attachment of the two elements "permanently together as indicated as completed in Fig. 10. Inasmuch as the article is-to be folded along the line of the thinned area, the thinned area as above indicated preferably has the adhesive substance omitted therefrom. The omission of application of the adhesive substance along the line of the thinned area is'readily accomplished by protecting or blocking out' that area while the adhesive is being applied An example of omitting the cementitious substance from this area may be readily accomplished by attaching an extension to the spreading knife 24 (not shown) which will engage the surface of the fabric being coated. This extension will prevent the cementitious substance from impregnating the surface of the fabric, and thus there will be a streak in the fabric which will not adhere to the facing fabric when gin of the element above described. The other or materials used as shown or described except as set forth in the following claims when construed in the light of the prior art.

I claim:

1. An article of attire comprising a woven multiply body portion having binding warp threads creating projections and hollows on the exposed side of the ply being more accentuated than on the inside face of the ply, a single ply facing fabric, said body portion and facing fabric being juxtaposed, and an adhesive substance comprising essentially a plasticized cellulose derivative applied to said side having the projections and hollows, and securing grip-hold thereby, said adhesive substance also securing the facing fabric juxtaposed on said body portion directly thereto.

2. An article of attire comprising a woven multiply body portion having binding warp threads creating projections. and hollows on the exposed side of the ply being more accentuated than on the inside face of the ply, a single ply facing fabric, and an adhesive substance comprising essentially a plasticized cellulose derivative applied to one face of said body portion and partially penetrating said body portion by entry in said hollows and thereby obtains a grip-hold of the adhesive substance on the projections and in said hollows, the extra ply thickness of said body portion preventing the adhesive substance from appearing on the opposite side thereof, and the facing fabric applied in juxtaposed relation upon the face of the body portion having the adhesive substance, the said adhesive substance serving to retain the facing fabric assembled upon the body portion.

3. An article of attire comprising a fabric having a multiply body portionformed of two webs, one web providing projections and hollows on one side larger'than those-on its other side and larger than projections and hollows in the other web, and said fabric having a binding warp thread uniting the webs and accentuating the said larger projections andhollows, a single ply facing fabric, said body portion and facing fabric being juxtaposed, and a thermoplastic cementitious substance applied to one face of the body portion and securing a grip-hold on said larger projections and in said hollows, said cementitious substance also securing the facing fabric juxtaposed on said body portion directly thereto. 4. A garment having a body portion and a collar or the like, said collar comprising a woven multiply fabric having a plurality of webs, said garment body portion and one of said webs having threads of like character forming the same and each ,woven with the same design, another of said webs being woven with hollows and projections, an adhesive substance comprising essentially a plasticized cellulose derivative applied to the last mentioned web, and a single ply facing fabric applied to said adhesive substance, said facing fabric having threads of like character and woven with the same design as said garment body portion and first mentioned web.

5. An article of attire as claimed in claim 2 comprising a woven multiply body portionfo'rmed of a plurality of webs, threads of one web differing in weight from threads of another web for providing finer texture of the body portion on one side than on the other.

6. An article of attire as claimed in claim 2 comprising a woven multiply body portion formed with one surface of flne texture and its opposite surface of coarser texture.

'I. An article of attire as claimed in claim 2 comprising a woven multiply body portion formed with a plurality of webs of which one outer web is closely woven and provides a surface of fine texture, and of which the other outer web is woven looser and provides an outer surface of coarser texture than the first mentioned surface.

HOWARD C. UNDERWOOD. 

